![]() ![]() my barrel clamp is made of aluminum so it's softer than the barrel and does not mar the finish. you could rap a piece of thick leather around the barrel to protect it and clamp it in the vice just be careful not to mar the barrel up. I do put a drop of rockset on the threads but a drop of locktite would also work but probably is not necessary.ĮTA, also you want to use barrel vise jaws to hold the barrel while tightening the flash hider, never use the barrel extension pin and upper to do this. it was about 3/4 of a turn more to get it lined up after contact with crush washer. you can see the gas tube on the backside of the wrench in the picture. This is what it looked like when it made contact with the crush washer I then tightened it till the center cut lined up with the gas tube. if you used a crush washer you simply tighten it to where the center slit/cut lines up with the center top of the barrel after the flash hider makes contact with the crush washer. the solid part goes on the bottom and center slit/cut goes at the top in line with the gas port/gas tube. There should be five slits or cuts for the flash to escape through on that flash hider. What are your thoughts on doing that?įirst off you did use a crush washer right? I have read often about the trouble people have getting flash hiders off so, on only one of the two, I put anti-seize compound on the barrel threads. I'm not sure I could get it to go that far without damaging the barrel alignment pin in the barrel extension. To get the solid portion on the bottom, would require another 180 degrees of tightening. To get it where it is now, I had to tighten in the vise just over 90 degrees. This time, though, I aligned the solid part on the top, openings on the bottom - it seems that having the flash blocked on top might be the right choice but it sure wouldn't match the pictures. My first AR I built, years ago, I aligned that solid part on the bottom, openings on the top. What's the center cut? In their video the wrench flats are approximately vertical but not actually he has the solid portion slightly to the side of centered on the bottom. Midway's video says to tighten it until "Center cut is straight up". ![]() When I finger tightened it, the solid portion was on the bottom so I knew I had to go beyond that. Just check out this picture from my favorite gun movie - Heat, Kilmer is shooting an 11.5" barrel with an A1 flash hider.I built a couple AR-s today but I have one question about whether I did the flash hider correctly. It would depend on the barrel length - shorter barrel = more flash, longer barrel = less flash (more time for the powder to burn). You realize that's special effects, right? Just check out this picture from my favorite gun movie - Heat, Kilmer is shooting an 11.5" barrel with an A1 flash hider.looks impressive! I am aware of the other flash hiders available my question is really just about the A2 versus the A1. Those enhancements are easy enough to see and appreciate.īut from the standpoint of just flash hiding, it seems that the A2's lack of the ventral ports that the A1 has would cause it to actually direct more flash towards the shooter's field of view, thus making it a somewhat less effective flash hider than the A1. ![]() As an improvement over the A1 birdcage, the A2 flash hider has a closed bottom that a.) presumably combats muzzle rise to some degree and b.) ameliorates or eliminates a dust signature when firing prone. ![]()
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